Crested Gecko — Correlophus ciliatus: Habitat and Care

The accepted name is Correlophus ciliatus. Older books and food labels often use Rhacodactylus ciliatus; these are not two different pets. The raised ridges above the eyes continue along the head and back, while expanded toe surfaces help the animal grip vegetation. Colour alone does not identify a species, and a spectacular captive pattern says nothing about the conditions it needs.

Its native range is New Caledonia. Forest structure matters more than recreating a particular photograph: sheltered resting places, multiple climbing routes and changes in exposure let a gecko choose where to sit. An intact tail is prehensile, but an animal that has dropped its tail can still be cared for well; this species does not regrow it.

Provide a controlled local warm perch around 26–28°C and a cooler area around 20–24°C, with an overnight fall towards 18–20°C. These RSPCA-based planning values describe different places and times, not a requirement to heat the entire enclosure to the warmest figure. Measure at the places the gecko actually reaches, including the underside of the roof.

Use a suitable dimming thermostat for a heat lamp, protected electrics and independent thermometers. A low UVB exposure with an RSPCA-style basking target near UVI 0.7, falling to zero inside cover, offers choice. Measure the finished installation: mesh, reflector and branch height matter. Keep lights off at night and avoid coloured night bulbs. A sunny window is an uncontrolled heater, not a substitute for measured lighting.

Misting should create drinking droplets and a temporary humidity rise, followed by drying of exposed surfaces. RVC guidance uses 50–70% humidity; RSPCA guidance describes a drier baseline with short higher peaks. Read these as different husbandry approaches to a cycle, not numbers to average into permanent saturation. Record the pattern at more than one height.

Use a suitable moisture-retaining planting substrate with a drainage route where water could accumulate. Keep the leaf surface loose and inspect beneath it. If the floor remains sodden, reduce excess water and investigate drainage and ventilation instead of simply adding another layer of material. Broad pesticide-free plants should offer shelter without blocking all airflow or all access to the warm perch.

Choose structure for diameter, grip and secure fixing before considering decorative detail. A coconut shelter needs an entrance and interior that fit the whole animal comfortably; attach it firmly and leave it inspectable. A small aquarium hide is not automatically an adult gecko shelter. Check every piece for sharp edges, residue and pinching gaps.

A thin leaf layer helps organise a planted floor, but it is not a substitute for elevated hiding places. Keep bulky substrate fibres away from feeding cups and inspect for loose loops that could catch toes. The tropical vivarium guide explains floor construction; this enclosure additionally needs the complete vertical branch network and measured lighting above it. Do not add a water feature simply because the planting looks lush.

Mangrove Root Driftwood — A shaped lower climbing route if the actual piece is appropriately sized, untreated and fixed securely; not a complete tall branch network.

Dried Magnolia Leaves – Natural Aquarium Leaf Litter — Broad floor leaves for a modest planted litter layer, with waste inspection underneath.

Coconut Cup (Cocos nucifera) – Natural Botanical Cave — A possible secured retreat only where the actual opening and interior fit the animal.

Leaf Botanical Enrichment Box — A selection of floor textures to assess individually, not a ready-made complete gecko enclosure.

House one gecko as the default. Permanent male–male housing is inappropriate, and pairing animals creates reproductive and aggression responsibilities rather than guaranteeing companionship. Even females can compete over preferred refuges. If an animal cannot use cover without passing a rival, the branch arrangement has failed as well as the social plan.

Let a settled animal step onto supported hands rather than grabbing from above. Keep handling low over a safe surface, never hold the tail and stop if the gecko repeatedly jumps away. Plan maintenance around its resting position. Observation at dusk often reveals more about route use than moving it into the open for a daytime photograph.

Crested geckos lay eggs, and mature females may lay even without a current male. Deliberate breeding requires suitable female condition, calcium provision, an accessible laying site and a researched incubation method; it is not an automatic next step after buying a pair. Retained eggs, straining or deterioration require a reptile vet.

Young geckos need escape-proof housing, small appropriate food and routes that bring them reliably to water and feeding stations. An adult enclosure can be difficult to monitor if food is hidden among dozens of leaves. Use a manageable grow-out arrangement or additional accessible feeding points, and record growth. Do not manufacture rapid growth by keeping the whole enclosure excessively warm.

If appetite falls, first compare temperatures, humidity cycle, food freshness and recent disturbance with the gecko’s normal pattern. Check the skin around toes and tail after shedding, but do not pull attached skin off dry. Persistent weight loss, weakness, abnormal mouth appearance or trouble climbing needs veterinary assessment, not a stronger vitamin mixture guessed from a forum.

Keep a simple record of measurements, meals, sheds and weight. Remove waste promptly, clean feeding ledges and wash hands after enclosure work. Bioactive planting does not dispose of every dropping. Choose a traceable captive-bred animal or suitable rescue, and prepare the enclosure before it arrives; no claim about a particular supplier’s breeding or legal paperwork is made here.